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As many of you already know, the 'owners manual' is not helpful, is totally generic, is a waste of paper, and is not coach-specific. I found it to be a complete waste of space and time.

I wondered why they don't make a manual specific to the unit purchased, then realized they'd need an entire department for that. Costs would certainly rise, which would not be a good thing. Has anyone found the 'manual' to be of any real benefit? I suppose in a general sense, there may be some value. This statement contradicts the one I made in the first paragraph. Trying to find some good in there, I suppose.

I'm the type that reads almost every manual I get just to see if I can learn something I didn't know. It's kinda like reading all the posts on this forum, rv.net, irv2.com, etc.

For instance, it would have been nice to know what size each tank is instead of just reading the marketing material saying '96 gal black tank/ 96 gal fresh' (I had to contact Dutchmen to get this info). Totally agree.

So what is the actual size of the tanks? And what is that 'third' lever for? And which fuel tank is for the generator, and which one is for the toys? And what do you do when a slide-out won't slide out? There are many things that Dutchmen could have put in a manual that are more specific to the unit being sold. It wouldn't have to be super detailed, but just cover the bigger items. It would be nice if they would even put out a 'line specific' manual.

I would think that other than the location of things, the entire Voltage line is probably very similar. I'm not sure if you're giving great examples of what the manual should contain or really asking questions, so I'll try to answer what I can: What I found out from Bishop Christensen (who is no longer with Dutchmen) is that there are two 48 gallon black tanks, so the front toilet has a 48 gallon black tank, and the back toilet/sink has a 48 gallon black tank. The front shower/sink has a 48 gallon grey tank, and the galley has a 48 gallon grey tank. The main panel on the drivers basement side pulls the black/grey for the front bath. Then there is another pull lever for the galley in front of the drivers side wheels (there is also a fresh water drain valve in the same general area).

Then there is the completely separate sewer outlet behind the wheels for the rear bath. (I really wish Dutchmen could have figured out how to control all of the waste tanks from one sewer outlet and one panel with separate pull handles.) Front fuel tank is for the toys and rear fuel tank is for the generator. As far as what to do when slides don't work, search 'Schwintek slide' on YouTube.

There are several videos by Lippert explaining the system, and even showing how to manually override the motors. Front fuel tank is for the toys and rear fuel tank is for the generator. Now I'm confused. I thought the front tank was for the generator and rear was for the toys. Is there some method to confirm this. I think I can pump all the gas out of whatever tank it's coming from, pumping into the other tank.

Then when that tank is empty, the other tank is whatever it is. The hose should be attached to the toy tank, so the tank that gets full is the generator tank. I'll check this out before my next trip, then label the darn things. Great info in your post. I'll have to sort all those tanks and levers and such and do more labeling.

• 5687 Answers SOURCE: Hello, Always start with the longest line first and then work your way forward. Usually with a Master cylinder, if the Master is on the Drivers side with the ABS, the passenger rear is the longest, then the drivers' rear line. As you go forward, the passengers' front is the next longest with the drivers' front being the shortest. I prefer to use a Vacuum hand-operated pump to draw fluid from the bleeders.

The cup which comes with the kit catches the old fluid and you can do the job by yourself. There are many ways to bleed brakes. You can pump them when you have a helper or you can Gravity bleed. Sometimes if you get a bad airlock, a Power bleed system needs to be used. A few Brands recommend Power bleeding because of their ABS setups.

You should have no problem if you perform the bleeding in the sequence I recommended. I hope my solution is very helpful to you. Posted on Sep 27, 2011. • 728 Answers SOURCE: Hi Frank, I have a Durango 2000 and pull a 24 foot ski boot loaded with equipment. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't try towing anything without the trailer brakes connected. I purchased the Titan Trailer brakes setup and they've never failed me once. The hitch: just make sure you get the right towing capacity for your travel trailer.

I have the 5.9 liter engine, which allows up to 6500 pounds of towing capacity. Kannada old a to z mp3 free download. Your owners guide will explain how many based on engine size. Good Luck, and happy traveling.

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