• Seadoo Impeller Solas

Up for sale is our version of the drive shaft removal tool. This tool gives the leverage to push back on the carbon seal retaining ring, or slide ring, so the circlip can be removed and the drive shaft pulled out. Impeller Tools and Seals; Parts for SeaDoo Pump; Parts for SeaDoo Pump. Sea-Doo Impeller Spline Tool (WR001) $13.99. Sea-Doo Jet Pump Oil. I need to change my wear ring and I am having a hard time getting a hold of the spline tool to remove the impeller on my 2005 Seadoo Sportster Le DI 951. How do you remove impeller shaft on a seadoo bombardier spx 1997. How do you remove impeller shaft on a seadoo. You need to get a Impeller removal tool.

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(It also gets rid of this banner!). I have had my impellers on and off several times. I had sent my port Solas impeller to Impros to get it adjust for a little more low end power, was cavitating bad with weight in the boat. Went to remove stock impeller (only been installed maybe 4 months) and it was a lot more difficult than in the past. Once apart I found the impeller female threads damaged and also the shaft had damaged male thread. I always used the locktight 567 on the threads like the manual directions show. (in the future will use a never-seize- I think) Question: Anybody know if you can replace the shaft easily?

Does it just slide inside the bearing in the pump housing? Also, boat is still under warranty with Yamaha. I spoke with Yamaha service manager and sent him pictures. He said he would check for me. I mentioned to him it was a threaded serviceable part and should be able to unscrew without gouging things. Waiting for a reply, figured I would try.

You need a press to change the shaft. I had a hell of a time with replacement of my original equipment impellers.

Long story short, one of them needed to be heated and split in half to come off. Some threads were mucked up like yours but in my situation I had no choice but to move ahead anyway. So I did manage to clean them up enough that the new impeller went on fully. No idea why this happens sometimes. Luckily it seems to be rare. I had a Yamaha Waverunner dealer give up trying to remove the old one, and send me away with the job undone. They said they have replaced thousands of these over the years and never once had this happen.

Before they gave up they broke a bench vise, bent the bench and messed up some of their tools. It took me and a buddy a few hours overnight to get it off, and another few hours cheaning up the threads and spinning new impeller on.

Somehow my shaft is still true. Though for sure it would be bent after the torque we put it through. Sorry to see you are going through this. My feeling is you'll be replacing shaft and impeller and Yamaha warranty wont help. As for why this happens, I did suck a rock into the pump with the stuck impeller so I assume the torque spun it on so tight that this happened.

I can tell you I did not use loctite on the new impellers, however its possible that loctite may actually prevent the impeller from tightening further in a similar situation. I dont think mine had any loctite on them from the factory.

You will need to take the cone off the other side of the duct housing and behind that is a bolt and washer on the end of the shaft. Remove them and then use an arbor press to press the shaft out. Check out this page, I just did this whole rebuild.

Lots of pics. If it was me, I would replace the shaft and impeller.

You may be able to clean up the impeller threads with a tap and the shaft with a Die but I would replace them. Looks like you could have had some gauling on assembly. Lots of the loctite thread sealer should prevent that but who knows, just an anomoly probably.

Make sure you're putting it on both sets of threads for assembly, otherwise the forward threads just push it back as you spin it on and the back threads get none. Looks like what might have happened. I would also say that if you're ordering parts and going to press out the shaft to replace or repair it, order the 2 shaft seals and the oring on the cone. Items 25, 19 and 20 below. Also, be prepared to grease the bearings (if they are still good) and you can convert to gear oil like I did or add grease inside the cone.

Island racing sells a grease for those bearings but I just used grease in the bearings and gear oil in the housing. Also, item 16 (bearing) is shown in the wrong place, it should be next to 17. I had the same experience with removing an impeller.

I broke a bench vice and eventually brought the 1 impeller/shaft to a dealer. He struggled, tried to cut off the impeller and I was then left with buying a new shaft, a new impeller, and the cost for their time (don't know the cost yet.). The other side came off pretty easily once I used a 3 foot cheater bar.

I am waiting on the reassembly of the parts since I am having the shop press in new jet bearings to brand new impeller ducts. I keep asking 'Wheres my boat at?'

I just did mine, and all I did was heat the shaft down in where the spline goes to melt the lock tight,, didnt need much heat at all, and you dont want to heat to much anyway,, I just had a glove on and kept trying it, when the lock tight let go, it came right off,, just had the other end in a vice with a rag to protect it,, just be shore to put the lock tight back on. I could see how you could get the ring out with removing the impeller, but it was to easy to get mine of, and I needed to change it anyway. Ok Its done!! I managed to replace the wear ring without removing the impeller. Grabbed on to the ends with 2 sets of pliers and held the pump in a vice and the wear ring just slid right out. New one slid in evenly by placing a 2x4 on top and tapping it into place!!! I dont know what I sucked in, but it caused a chunk of the wear ring to be destroyed but the neoprene seal was perfect as was the impeller.

I noticed the other day my top speed was 45mph on the boat with nobody else in it. Before I sucked in the weeds and probably a stick I was hitting about 53-54 according to the speedometer (not verified on gps) Gonna test it first thing in the morning.

Seadoo Impeller Solas

Procedure for jet pump removal. Jet pump removal is necessary for impeller replacement, driveline repair, or jet pump service. If the jet pump needs service, or impeller change, refer to the oil change page for nozzle and cone removal, otherwise you can remove the pump as a complete unit for driveline repair. Tools needed: • 17 mm deep well socket, ratchet, and long extension (12' if possible) • 2 - 10 mm wrench • Flat head screwdriver Removal: • Remove cables, springs, and connections as described in the page. • Remove seat from ski, and locate cooling water inlet and outlet hoses (they are black, one has flush fitting in-line on most skis). Remove hoses where they connect to the jet pump, using flat screwdriver.

Also locate clear hose(s) connecting to pump, cut any cable ties, and remove them (label them if you need to). • Remove 4 - 17mm nuts, using ratchet and extension. Reach in and remove washers from the studs, if possible. • Pull pump out. Sometimes the pump may be siliconed in (especially on top), so this may take some work. If the pump seems loose, but will not come out, check to insure that all thru-hull connections have been removed.

NOTE - On XP Limited and HX models, make sure you have a friend reach into the intake grate and hold/push the driveshaft forward so it doesn't come out with the pump when removing the pump from the hull.