Below is a typical Chassis Set Up Sheet used by most Stock Car teams. Click on the image to download it in PDF format. Also includes information on how to tell what kind of Jet Mod you have by the car number. This setup manual is intended for use. Download the 2012 Stock Car Setup. Design & Build Your Own Stock/Late Model Car From. Workings of a manual transmissions. A paved track stock car. Shows step-by-step chassis setup.

Ten Popular Handling Fixes That May Mask Other Problems Over the years, teams have invented varied ways to set up a stock car. The overall goals, we assumed, were two-fold. First, we all desired to put down the fastest lap among our group of competitors. We also wanted to create a “balanced” race car, meaning the car neither pushed nor was loose. Even if we were able to achieve both of these objectives through a process of trial and error, we still may not have found the ideal setup that would win races. We have learned the fastest setup on a two- or three-lap run is not usually the fastest setup at the end of the race when running on worn and hot tires.

The key to finding the best setup is understanding that our fast setup must remain fast over a long period of time-ideally until the checkered flag falls. The key to that end is to understand the true definition of “balance” so that we can have the desired consistency needed to be a winner.

If you have ever made changes to your setup for handling better, suspecting all along that the real problem was somewhere else, then you have “crutched” the car. This term means that what you are doing to help the car be neutral in handling is not likely the best fix for the problem.

Your hub for horsepower Get first access to hit shows like Roadkill and Dirt Every Day Join free for 14 days now For many years, and even still today, racers have developed some pretty ingenious ways to “crutch up” their race cars to make them handle better. Handling, in our most basic understanding of the word, can best be described as being able to drive through a turn without the car being either loose (driver looking at the infield) or tight (driver looking at the outside retaining wall). The three main segments or phases of the turn where we might experience handling problems are entry to the turn, through the middle, and upon exit off the turn.

A race car setup crutch could be defined as any change in the setup that is intended to solve a handling problem that, in reality, does not make the car faster and/or causes other problems to appear at other points on the racetrack. We will explain how some specific crutch methods work and why racers think they need these particular crutches. In future articles, we will expand on each topic to explain how to develop more efficient ways to accomplish the same goals.

Here are the top 10 setup crutches: The way the driver is forced to drive the car can sometimes be a crutch. How many times have we heard a driver say that the car is loose when we can see it appears tight on entry and in the middle of the turns?

The driver is most likely steering excessively, trying to overcome a tight condition, but unaware of his action. This excess steering definitely creates more traction in the front tires to help balance the car. The way the driver is forced to steer the car can be an indication of a problem with the setup. This is one of the top indicators that might lead to a crutched setup.

A lot of research has been done on tire characteristics related to traction. Tire engineers learned that a tire will generate more traction at increased angles of attack in the direction the car is turning. This means that the front tires will actually gain more traction as the wheel is turned farther left, up to a point. When the steering gets to an excessive angle of attack, the front tires will suddenly give up all of their traction, causing a severe push. Normally, as the steering wheel is turned a few degrees more than normal to force the front end around in a tight car, the handling balance begins to change. As the driver enters the turn, backs off the throttle, and applies the brakes, he (or she) begins to turn the steering wheel and must turn it sufficiently for the front end to come around.

If the car is actually set up too tight, the driver will need to turn the wheel further than what would normally be necessary in a car that is neutral in handling balance. When the driver has turned too far, the traction balance reverses from tight to loose as the front traction begins to exceed the rear traction. At this point, the car will start to feel loose. This can happen so quickly that the driver will swear that the setup in the car is loose. Just past mid-turn, the car will definitely feel loose to the driver. The exit performance off the turn will also suffer as the driver gets on the throttle and the car gets looser from power-induced rear wheel spin.

The average temperatures of the rear tires will then probably be hotter than the average of the front tires due to spinning the tires with the loose-off condition. The crew will many times read this as a loose condition and think the car needs to be tightened up. It is already tight, and so a lot of valuable time is wasted searching for solutions to this basic problem.

A great way to quickly discover just what the handling balance really is for your car is to have the driver roll through the turn below the maximum speed. The amount of steering input needed to just drive around the turn should be mentally noted. The crew chief can view the location of the driver’s hands from the fence or the top of the hauler. Then, the driver should take the turn at full speed as he would in the race.

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Again, note the amount of steering input by asking the driver or looking at the position of his hands at mid-turn. If the steering wheel is turned more than when the car was rolled slowly through the turn, the car is set up too tight. Many drivers are very surprised at the outcome of this test. A lot of time can be saved by doing this simple exercise. There are many ways to promote more bite off the corners rather than by putting excessive rear spring split in the car. Often, a small amount of spring split will do the job while helping to maintain balance setup for mid-turn performance.

The front springs may be too stiff or the spring split may be wrong, causing an unbalanced setup. A stiff right-front spring can make the car too tight by not allowing the front to roll to work with the rear. The way the front springs are arranged as to stiffness is dependent upon the track configuration and banking angles. If the track has a long and larger radius entry combined with a lower banking angle, you can run a softer right-front spring than the left-front spring. This serves to improve turn entry and helps make the front end more efficient at mid-turn. This will not work with a tighter entry combined with a higher amount of track banking angle.

For tracks with medium banking and normal entry characteristics, you can run even spring rates across the front with good results. As the track banking angle increases, so should the right-front spring rate over the left-front spring rate. Sometimes, we may play with the upper control arm angles and lengths to see if we can improve the way the front end works. When we do this and do not track the moment center (often referred to as the roll center) location, we can drastically change the dynamics of the front suspension for the worse. There is no telling where the moment center (MC) might be located after we make our changes.

The front MC is the bottom of the front moment arm. Its position determines the length of the moment arm and the efficiency of the front suspension. If the front moment center were located too far to the left, the front suspension would roll excessively and the right-front suspension travel would be excessive. This will cause the right-front tire camber to change too rapidly and that tire would lose grip, a condition usually described by the driver as the car “falling over” on the right front.

If the MC is located too far to the right, the front end will be overly stiff and not want to roll, and the front suspension will not work along with the rear. This is much the same as having stiff springs up front.

The static front wheel cambers we run to maintain proper tire temperatures across the face of the tread is an indicator of the balance of the setup and/or possible problems with camber loss or gain at the right-front wheel. Running excessive camber on the right front tells us that tire is working too hard. For any type of racing, be it dirt or asphalt, high or low banking, we should never need more than four degrees of negative camber at the right front. Teams that run 5-6 degrees of static camber are usually running setups that are unbalanced and that cause an excess amount of weight transfer to the right-front tire.